First, a brief look back. Ten years ago, we bought our first batch from the El Condor coffee farm in El Salvador. It was during a visit to the farm that the words "it's like walking in a Bourbon Jungle" were uttered by a Solberg & Hansen representative overwhelmed by the lush Bourbon trees on the farm. Since then, Bourboun Jungle has become one of our most popular coffees and a great example of how close and long-term relationships with coffee farms can pay off for everyone involved. In 2014, Mariano and Nena Salazar's entire crop was just under two bags, equivalent to just over 100 kilos of coffee. It goes without saying that this is a crisis for a farm we usually buy more than 200 bags (over 10 tonnes) of coffee from.
Ribbed for leaves
How can the yields of a well-run coffee farm decline so dramatically in just a few years?
- The rainy season here in El Salvador extends from May to October every year. In November 2011, however, there was an unexpected downpour that lasted 11 consecutive days. During this short period, it actually rained more than it usually does in an entire year - and this was after the expected rainy season. The amount of precipitation provided favourable conditions for the plant disease "leaf rust" to grow, which in turn stripped the coffee trees of their leaves. This, of course, weakened the trees which, combined with all the excess moisture, made it easy for fungi and bacteria to attack the roots.
Could this have been avoided if you didn't grow organically?
- Organic farming requires more work and follow-up in the face of plant diseases, fungi and bacteria. We don't use artificial fertilisers or chemical pesticides against weeds, fungi and bacteria. This means that we have to attack weeds manually, and to combat fungi we can only use copper, sulphate and lime. The problem with these products is that they only work by application, which means they need to be used regularly.
What are you doing to address these challenges?
- To combat fungi, we need to work methodically to uncover where the trees have been most heavily attacked. That's why we've divided Borboun Jungle into separate areas with associated lots. In this way, we can investigate the development of leaf rust and other diseases at fixed time intervals, as well as experiment with different uses of copper, sulphate and lime in the separate areas. This can give us an indication of which measures are most effective and at what time they work best. We have also made a concerted effort to plant shade trees, and pruned areas of the farm where there was too much shade. To create natural ventilation channels between the trees, we've also pruned branches on coffee trees that invade the ones next to them. The toughest battle, however, has been to convince the bank to continue financing. According to them, it's virtually impossible to run an organic coffee farm at a profit. "Three years after the rainfall, we've finally got the plant diseases under control, and we're expecting almost normal production levels as early as 2015.
Biological diversity
Considering all the pitfalls, why do you choose to grow organically?
- First and foremost because we believe it is our responsibility as landowners to respect our surroundings. This includes a responsibility to preserve and contribute to a healthy and sustainable environment. One that stimulates biodiversity and helps plant and animal life to exist in harmony with us humans. That's why it's out of the question for us to apply chemicals to the soil that harm plants and animals. Because we don't use herbicides, the surface of the soil retains its natural protective layer, which reduces the extent of erosion damage. The trees we have planted to shade the coffee plants have become home to a wide range of insect and bird species, as well as mammals, reptiles and fungi that are beneficial to the environment. We observe that the range of animals living in the area is increasing - including deer, squirrels, raccoons and a wide range of bird species.
What are your thoughts on the future of coffee cultivation - for yourself, in El Salvador and in producer countries in general?
- Here we believe it is important to distinguish between coffee cultivation and organic coffee cultivation. As far as our farms are concerned, we hope that it will be possible to grow 100% organically in the long term. In El Salvador, however, organic coffee growing is becoming less and less favoured, and we can imagine that the trend is the same in other producer countries. Our assumption is that the use of organic methods has stagnated, if not already begun to decline. Here in El Salvador, everyday life is characterised by uncertainty, both related to political issues and crime. We struggle with violent gangs, called "maras", which at times make it deadly dangerous to visit our own farms. When it comes to coffee growing in general, the outlook is more positive. Every year, global coffee consumption increases by around 2 %, which means that we can expect reasonable prices for our product. It is also pleasing that we have succeeded in turning around the situation at Borboun Jungle, with a large proportion of healthy coffee trees that will produce a solid crop next year.
The future is green
Based on our long co-operation, and Salazar's dedication to coffee quality and sustainability, we wanted to contribute in a way that could help the family to continue their business. That's why we chose to buy coffee from their second farm, La Lima, at the same price as in previous years. This has helped to give the family the time and resources to implement the measures they describe in the interview above.
After three years of hard work, the coffee farm has finally become lush and green, and the family reports promising prospects for future crops. This illustrates how close relationships with coffee farms, as well as the ability to take human considerations into account in the coffee trade, can be sustainable and benefit all links in the value chain in the long term. Hopefully, this year's Bourbon Jungle La Lima will stand as a symbol of longevity and sustainability when we mark 20 years of cooperation in 2024.
